Albania

The Riviera: Greek-style beaches without the Greek crowds

The Albanian Riviera runs from Vlorë down to Ksamil along the Ionian Sea: turquoise water, white coves and cliffs that drop straight into the sea.

Ksamil is the postcard. Swim, paddle or take a short boat ride out to the small islands just offshore.

Sarandë, a short drive north, is the real town, with hotels, seafood and a buzzing evening promenade. It's also your base for Butrint, a UNESCO-listed ancient city set among woods and lagoons.

With a car, drive the coast road north to Vlorë. You'll pass hilltop villages, the turn-off for hidden Gjipe beach and Ali Pasha's fortress at Porto Palermo.

Best for: beach days, road trips · Spinny tip: June and September give you warm water with far fewer people.

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Berat and Gjirokastër: two stone towns frozen in time

Albania has two UNESCO-listed Ottoman towns. Both are built so steeply into the hillside that the houses look stacked on top of each other.

Berat is the "Town of a Thousand Windows." Climb to Kalaja, the castle quarter, and you'll find a whole neighborhood still lived in inside the walls. Don't miss the painted icons in the Onufri Museum.

Gjirokastër is the "Stone City": hundreds of houses with slate roofs and wooden balconies below one of the biggest castles in the Balkans. The castle was once used as a prison and now holds a weapons museum. Step inside a restored Ottoman house such as Zekate House to see how wealthy families lived.

Hungry? Head to the old bazaar for byrek and qifqi, fried rice balls with herbs that are a Gjirokastër speciality.

Best for: history, photography, slow wandering · Spinny tip: Stay a night in each town. Both are at their best in the evening, after the day-trippers leave.

Photo by Amarildo Lezaj 🇦🇱 on Pexels

Tirana: Cold War secrets in a city painted in candy colors

Tirana isn't what people expect. Apartment blocks are painted in bright colors and patterns, the cafés are full from morning to night, and the communist past is never far away.

Start at Skanderbeg Square, next to the frescoed Et'hem Bey Mosque and the Clock Tower.

Then dig into the past. Bunk'Art 1 and 2 turn Cold War bunkers into museums, and the House of Leaves shows how the secret police spied on ordinary people. All three are unsettling, and all three are worth your time.

At night, head to Blloku. Under communism it was closed to everyone except the party elite. Today it's the city's go-to area for bars, terraces and cocktails.

Best for: city breaks, recent history, nightlife · Spinny tip: Take the cable car up Mount Dajti for the view over the city.

The Albanian Alps: the "Accursed Mountains" that are anything but

Up north, the peaks are sharp, the valleys are green and the villages stayed remote for centuries. The scenery rivals the Swiss Alps, without the Swiss prices.

The classic route is the Valbona–Theth hike: a full day, one way, over a pass at almost 1,800 m. Sleep in family-run guesthouses at either end, and arrange transport for the way back.

Shkodër is the gateway town, where most hikers sort out transport. Away from the trails you'll find stone houses, old defensive towers and a slower way of life.

Best for: hiking, adventure, digital detox · Spinny tip: The pass is usually snow-free only from June to early October. Start early to beat the midday heat.