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Serbia — video preview

Serbia Drink Guide

From the vine-covered slopes of Fruška Gora to the stone cellars of Negotin, Serbia's wine culture is ancient and its rakija tradition is older still — poured without ceremony at every table, in every season.

The glass arrives before you've sat down. In Serbia, drinking is inseparable from hospitality — every meeting begins with rakija, every feast anchors around wine, every conversation stretches long into the night. Grape-growing here stretches back two millennia; the monasteries of Fruška Gora have been making wine since the medieval Nemanjəć dynasty; the vineyards of eastern Serbia once supplied wine to Paris when phylloxera wiped out the French crop in the 19th century.

Serbia's wine renaissance is well underway. Indigenous varieties — Prokupac, Tamjanika, Crna Tamjanika — are being rediscovered and celebrated; a new generation of winemakers is making wines that compete across Europe. But rakija remains the national soul: plum, quince, apricot, pear — clear and clean, served neat from a small glass at every table, morning or night. Here are the places worth visiting in person.

This guide contains information about alcoholic beverages and is intended for adults of legal drinking age in their country.

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Wine — Vineyards & Wineries

Serbia has been growing grapes since Roman times — on the forested ridges of Fruška Gora, the rolling hills of Šumadija, and the sun-baked slopes of eastern Negotin. Indigenous varieties planted for centuries are now producing wines that sommeliers are noticing for the first time.

Fruška Gora

A forested ridge stretching 80 kilometres across Vojvodina in northern Serbia, the southern slopes of Fruška Gora have been under vine since Roman times. Sixteen Orthodox monasteries still operate among the vineyards — the monastic winemaking tradition here predates most of Europe's famous wine regions. Today Fruška Gora is Serbia's most developed wine destination, with dozens of family estates and a wine route connecting cellars, monasteries, and the baroque town of Sremski Karlovci. Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir perform exceptionally on the mineral-rich slopes.

Key grapes: Riesling · Chardonnay · Pinot Noir · Pinot Blanc · Welschriesling · Cabernet Sauvignon

Kovačević winery vineyard rows on southern slopes of Fruška Gora Irig Serbia
Photo by Peter Dyllong on Pexels
Must Visit

Vinarija Kovačević

Irig, Fruška Gora

Three generations of the Kovačević family on the same south-facing Fruška Gora slope — and in 2013, they acquired the historic Iriški Podrum, one of the largest and most celebrated wine cellars in the former Yugoslavia, founded in 1930. The estate now covers 80 hectares under organic conversion, producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir alongside the Orfelin premium line. Tours include a visit through the historic underground galleries, a tasting of the full estate range, and lunch at the on-site restaurant Vinska kuća Kovačević — a glass-sided dining room overlooking the vines. One of the most complete winery experiences in Serbia.

⏱ Tours by reservation · 📍 Vojvode Putnika 78, Irig · 📞 +381 22 461 192 · 20 km from Novi Sad

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Kiš 1801 winery tasting room Sremski Karlovci Fruška Gora Serbia wine cellar
Since 1801

Vinarija Kiš 1801

Sremski Karlovci, Fruška Gora

Named for the year that family patriarch Stevan Kiš purchased the first vineyard — a purchase contract still reproduced on the label — Vinarija Kiš 1801 is one of the most historic estate wineries on Fruška Gora. Located in baroque Sremski Karlovci, one of Serbia's most charming small towns, the winery offers guided tastings in an indoor room seating 45 guests and a summer garden terrace. Three tasting levels are available, from three wines to six; all guided by a sommelier who knows the history as well as the wine. Their Portugizer won the Champion du Monde title at the Villány international competition in 2017.

⏱ Mon–Sun 9:00–19:00 · 💰 From $6.9 · 📍 Karlovčkog mira 46, Sremski Karlovci · Reservations required

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Fruškogorski Vinogradi organic winery Banoštor Fruška Gora vineyard bottles
Photo by Diogo Miranda on Pexels
Organic Estate

Fruškogorski Vinogradi

Banoštor, Fruška Gora

A boutique Fruška Gora producer founded in 2006 in the village of Banoštor, directly above the Danube, making wines that aim for precision over volume. Their Quet series (Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Riesling) represents the more restrained, mineral end of Fruška Gora white wine; the Fruškać blend bridges the gap between international and indigenous grapes. The estate is deliberately small — tastings feel personal rather than commercial, and the setting above the great river bend is exceptional. Contact by email or phone to arrange a visit.

⏱ By appointment · 📍 Dunavska 5, Banoštor · 📞 +381 21 6613 500 · 30 km from Novi Sad

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Šumadija

The heartland of central Serbia — rolling forested hills and south-facing slopes between Belgrade and Kragujevac, at 200–400 metres altitude. Winemaking was interrupted by centuries of Ottoman rule and revived from the 18th century onwards; Šumadija became the cradle of the modern Serbian state and its most personal grape variety. Prokupac — Serbia's defining indigenous red — thrives here alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and international whites. Serbia's first private winery after communist collectivisation opened here in 1990, setting off a revival that continues today.

Key grapes: Prokupac · Cabernet Sauvignon · Merlot · Riesling · Pinot Grigio

Podrum Radovanović tasting room Krnjevo Šumadija wine cellar Serbia
Photo by Liv Kao on Pexels
Serbia's First Private Winery

Podrum Radovanović

Krnjevo, Šumadija

The most storied address in modern Serbian wine. In 1990, Miodrag Mija Radovanović opened Serbia's first post-communist private winery on his grandfather's preserved vineyard in Krnjevo — a vineyard with roots dating back to 1831. Radovanović has since become one of Serbia's most admired producers, known for Prokupac, Cabernet Franc and Riesling of serious quality. The tasting room is warm and personal — Mija's own phrase sums it up: “I make wines to enjoy them with my friends. If this changes, I will stop.” Individual and group visits include a cellar tour and wine tasting; book at least a week ahead.

⏱ By reservation · 📞 +381 60 0821 090 · 📍 Krnjevo, Šumadija · 1 hour from Belgrade

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Despotika winery barrique hall panoramic terrace Šumadija Serbia wine visit
Award-Winning Estate

Despotika Winery

Smederevska Palanka, Šumadija

One of Šumadija's most complete wine tourism destinations — a modern estate with 20 hectares of vineyard across two wine regions, a Winemaking Museum, barrique hall, panoramic terrace and six guest rooms for overnight stays. Despotika has won medals at international competitions in London, Vienna, Sofia and Bucharest; their indigenous varieties (Prokupac, Morava) compete alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for the attention of visiting wine lovers. Seven tasting packages range from a simple three-wine tasting to a full premium lunch with accommodation; advance booking is mandatory. The season runs May through October.

⏱ May–Oct, Thu–Sun 12:00–20:00 · 💰 From $8.9 · 📍 Smederevska Palanka · 📞 +381 69 821 41 74

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Župa & Negotin — South and East

Two very different wine regions at opposite ends of the country. Župa, in a sheltered valley between Kopaonik and Jastrebac mountains, is one of Serbia's oldest documented wine landscapes — Tamjanika (the indigenous Muscat) has been cultivated here for centuries before wine tourism existed as a concept. In the far east, Negotin's Timočka Krajina made an extraordinary contribution to European wine history: when phylloxera wiped out French vineyards in the 1880s, Serbian grapes and vine cuttings were shipped to France to restart production. Today Negotin produces bold, full-bodied wines from Gamay and Tamjanika in stone hillside cellars that have barely changed since.

Key grapes: Tamjanika (white Muscat) · Crna Tamjanika · Prokupac · Gamay · Sauvignon Blanc

Vino Budimir winery Aleksandrovac Župa region Serbia tamjanika wine tasting
Photo by Natalie Bond on Pexels
Four Generations

Vino Budimir

Aleksandrovac, Župa

The Budimir family has been making wine in Aleksandrovac since 1878, when they supplied wine to Serbian armed forces — now in their fourth generation, operating a modern 500,000-litre winery on the edge of town. Their portfolio of 11 wines is built around Župa's defining varieties: Tamjanika (aromatic, floral, incomparable with grilled fish) and Prokupac (Serbia's native red at its most expressive). Three tasting packages are available, from a six-wine lunch to a twelve-wine VIP tasting with expanded menu; all set in a winery surrounded by four mountains. The panoramic setting — Timočka, Goč, Željina and Kopaonik visible on clear days — is exceptional.

⏱ By reservation · 💰 From $36 · 📍 Borjanska 23, Aleksandrovac · 📞 +381 62 797 244

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Vinarija Raj Rajac stone cellar Negotin eastern Serbia Crna Tamjanika wine
Rarest Variety in Serbia

Vinarija Raj

Rajac, Negotin Krajina

A small family winery in the village of Rajac — at the heart of one of Europe's most singular wine landscapes: 270+ stone hillside cellars (pimnice) built into White Hill from the late 18th century through the 1930s. Vinarija Raj focuses on the varieties that define this corner of Serbia: White Tamjanika, Red Tamjanika (Crna Tamjanika — nearly extinct and revived from original Bukovo Agricultural School cuttings), Gamay, and their PLOT blend. Every visit includes a tour of the production facility and a tasting with optional catering — accommodation is available in the charming Šećermala house in Rajac. September grape harvest is the peak moment to visit.

⏱ By reservation · 📍 Rajac, Negotin Krajina, eastern Serbia · 🏡 Accommodation available

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🍷 Practical Wine Tips

  • Fruška Gora's wine route connects vineyards, monasteries and the baroque town of Sremski Karlovci — plan a full day driving between Irig, Sremski Karlovci and Banoštor, ideally mid-week when wineries are less busy
  • Prokupac is Serbia's signature red — dark cherry, earthy mineral notes and firm tannins. Look for it from Šumadija and Župa producers; the best age beautifully for 8–10 years
  • White Tamjanika is almost unknown outside Serbia but extraordinary with local cuisine — aromatic, floral, with peach and apricot on the finish; serve cold with grilled trout or soft white cheese
  • Most Serbian wineries require reservations 3–7 days in advance; walk-in visitors are the rare exception, not the rule — always call ahead
  • Negotin's Rajačke Pimnice — 270+ stone hillside cellars — is one of Europe's most unusual wine sites. Visit in September during the grape harvest to see the entire community working and celebrating together
  • Estate direct sales (direktna prodaja) are common and priced well below retail — bring cash and buy as much as you can legally carry home
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Wine Bars & Kafanas

Belgrade's drinking scene runs from afternoon to the small hours — wine bars, rakija bars, and the kafana, Serbia's own institution: a place where wine, brandy and live tamburica music keep going long after any sensible closing time.

Rakia Bar Dobračina Belgrade Serbia rakija traditional mezze pairing
Belgrade Since 2006

Rakia Bar

Dobračina 5, Dorćol, Belgrade

The bar that gave Serbian rakija its moment — a contemporary concept where 130+ types of fruit distillate are served with expertly paired food in a setting that manages to feel both modern and deeply local. Founded in 2006 by Branko Nešić with the idea that Serbia's finest brandy deserved proper presentation, Rakia Bar now draws visitors and locals equally. Plum, quince, apricot, pear, cherry, apple, pear-quince, grape marc — all listed with provenance and recommended pairing. The signature “Serbian Awakening” (domestic coffee, preserves, water and brandy) is one of the great morning rituals in the Balkans. Five minutes' walk from Kalemegdan fortress.

⏱ Daily 9:00–00:00 (Fri–Sat until 01:00) · 📍 Dobračina 5, Dorćol, Belgrade · Walk-in, patio fills fast in summer

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Vračar Wine Bar

Wine & Fine

Vračar, Belgrade

Belgrade's most carefully curated wine bar — a cozy space in the Vračar neighbourhood where the list covers the best Serbian producers alongside selected international labels, all personally chosen by the owner. The format is relaxed but the knowledge behind each pour is real. Weekend evenings often feature a winemaker from a specific estate presenting their range or a tasting focused on a particular Serbian region — the programme changes with the season. One of the few Belgrade wine bars where you genuinely learn something from the person across the bar. Open most of the week and well into the night on weekends.

⏱ Mon–Thu 8:00–00:00, Fri–Sat 8:00–01:00, closed Sun · 📍 Vračar, Belgrade · 📞 +381 61 131 5483

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Tri Šešira kafana Skadarlija Belgrade bohemian street tamburica music traditional
Since 1864

Tri Šešira

Skadarska 29, Skadarlija, Belgrade

The oldest kafana on Skadarlija — Belgrade's cobblestoned bohemian quarter — and one of the most atmospherically charged places to drink in the entire Balkans. Open since 1864 in a building named for the three-hats sign of the craft workshop it once housed. The founding of the newspaper Politika was celebrated here; Tito inaugurated a table in 1975; Alfred Hitchcock ate here during a Belgrade visit. The wine list covers Serbian regional producers; the rakija is local and generous; and after dark, tamburica musicians move between the tables playing the songs of Skadarlija's 19th-century heyday. Come after 9pm and plan to stay until they stop playing.

⏱ Daily 11:00–02:00 · 📍 Skadarska 29, Skadarlija, Belgrade · Live tamburica music nightly

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Know Your Serbian Wine

Serbia has more indigenous grape varieties than almost any country in Europe — most of them unknown outside the Balkans. Here's what's worth looking for before you visit a Serbian winery.

Prokupac
Serbia's most important indigenous red variety — deep ruby, notes of dark cherry, plum and earthy minerals; firm tannins and good structure for aging. The grape that defined Serbian red wine before centuries of Ottoman interruption and is now being rediscovered with a new generation of winemakers. Best from Šumadija and Župa; can age 8–10 years from a good producer.
Tamjanika (White)
Serbia's aromatic flagship white — a Muscat clone (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) adapted to Serbian terroir over centuries. Floral and honeyed, with peach, apricot and rose on the nose; can range from bone dry to off-dry. Best from Župa and Negotin; incomparable with grilled trout, soft white cheeses and cured meats.
Crna Tamjanika (Red Tamjanika)
The rarer, darker sibling — nearly extinct until a recent revival in Negotin's Timočka Krajina. Deeply aromatic, richly structured, with notes of rose petal, dark berry and warming spice. Available from only a handful of producers; Vinarija Raj in Rajac is the most accessible source. A serious collector's wine.
Gamay in Negotin
Known in France as the grape of Beaujolais, but Negotin's Gamay is an entirely different proposition: fuller body, deeper colour, longer aging potential. With 260+ sunny days annually and clay-limestone soils, Negotin's Gamay develops the richness and structure that the Beaujolais version rarely achieves. Serbian Gamay from Rajac regularly surprises visitors expecting something lighter.
Welschriesling (Graševina)
Nothing to do with Rhine Riesling, but the workhorse white of Fruška Gora — fresh, lively, with green apple and citrus notes. Low alcohol, high acidity, and genuinely thirst-quenching. The natural companion to Fruška Gora fish stew (filet od šaran) and the reason every table in Vojvodina has a carafe of white wine on it.

Serbia's wine classification divides wines into stono vino (table wine), kvalitetno vino (quality wine) and vrhunsko vino (premium quality wine). Unlike France or Italy, Serbia also labels extensively by variety — if you see “Prokupac” or “Tamjanika” on the front label, the grape is the point. When a winery uses both indigenous and international varieties, the indigenous wines are almost always the more interesting purchase.

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Rakija — Serbia's National Spirit

Every country has its spirit. Serbia has rakija — and takes it seriously in a way that no other country quite matches. Distilled from fruit, double-distilled for quality, aged or drunk young, and poured without ceremony at every table from breakfast onwards. These are the two addresses for understanding it properly.

Belgrade & Western Serbia

Serbia's craft distillery scene has emerged in Belgrade, bringing modern precision to the oldest distilling tradition in the Balkans. In the mountains of western Serbia, family distilleries have been producing rakija for generations — the Zarić operation in Kosjerić brings that tradition into a state-of-the-art facility that has won gold at Concours Mondial de Bruxelles multiple years running.

Key fruits: Šljiva (plum) · Dunja (quince) · Kajsija (apricot) · Kruška (pear) · Loza (grape marc) · Malina (raspberry)

Belgrade Urban Distillery Dorćol craft rakija micro-distillery Serbia tasting tour
Photo by Gizem Erol on Pexels
Belgrade's First Craft Distillery

Belgrade Urban Distillery

Žorža Klemansoa 19, Dorćol, Belgrade

Serbia's first open-format craft distillery — a small, precision operation in Dorčol producing more than 20 varieties of double-distilled rakija and liqueurs in small batches. The Rakia Tour (45 minutes to one hour) includes four different drinks, cold mezze, and a guided lecture on rakija production and the traditions behind it — the most structured introduction to Serbian brandy available anywhere. The distillery also runs a Rakia Bank programme: guests can age their own barrel of chosen spirit on-site and receive bottles annually. The bar and shop are open most days; the restaurant serves traditional Serbian cuisine alongside an extraordinary house rakija list.

⏱ Mon–Fri 13:00–22:00, Sat 16:00–22:00 · 📍 Žorža Klemansoa 19, Dorćol, Belgrade · Tours by booking

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Zarić Distillery Kosjerić Western Serbia plum brandy slivovitz aged oak barrels
Concours Mondial Gold 2019–2021

Destilerija Zarić

Kosjerić, Zlatibor District

Described as the most modern brandy distillery in Southeast Europe — built on the tradition and premises of the once-famous Povlen distillery in Kosjerić, western Serbia. The Zarić family's brandy-making roots stretch back a century to grandfather Miloš, a trusted small-batch producer; their flagship “The Queen” is a twice-distilled plum rakija (prepečenica) aged for at least seven years in oak barrels, and has won gold at Concours Mondial de Bruxelles in three consecutive years. Beyond plum, the distillery produces quince, apricot, pear, raspberry and honey varieties. A degustation centre is available for visiting groups; contact in advance to arrange. Set in the mountains of western Serbia near the Zlatibor tourism region.

⏱ By appointment · 📍 Maksima Markovića 42, Kosjerić 31260 · 📞 +381 11 840 9604 · Near Zlatibor

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🍸 Rakija — What to Know

  • Šljivovica (plum brandy) is the Serbian national drink — a double-distilled plum spirit that can be young and clear (bela) or aged in oak (žuta); the best aged versions rival good Cognac in complexity
  • Prepečenica is double-distilled rakija — higher alcohol, cleaner fruit, longer finish; always ask if a house makes prepečenica when visiting a distillery
  • Loza is grape marc rakija — similar to Italian grappa, distilled from the skins and seeds after pressing; best when aged, and a natural companion to Serbian cheese and charcuterie
  • Rakija is traditionally served at room temperature in a small glass (čašica), never chilled — the warmth releases the aromatics; chilling it is considered an insult to the distiller
  • Homemade rakija (domaća) is ubiquitous in Serbian households and rural areas — if offered, accept; refusing is impolite and the quality of home production often surprises visitors
  • “Živeli!” (zhee-veh-lee) is cheers in Serbian — make eye contact when you raise your glass; in parts of Serbia, it's said that avoiding eye contact during a toast brings seven years of bad luck
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Craft Beer — Breweries & Taprooms

Serbia's craft beer scene erupted in the 2010s — led by two very different operations: a fast-growing Belgrade taproom that has brewed over 160 different beers, and a greenfield brewery on Mount Kosmaj that has been named the best in Serbia multiple years running. Both are worth the visit.

Belgrade & Beyond

The Belgrade craft beer scene developed quickly from 2015 onwards, with a generation of brewers trained in brewing science across Europe bringing back modern styles — IPAs, NEIPAs, saisons, oatmeal stouts — alongside local character. Both of these breweries are accessible from the capital and represent the current high point of Serbian craft beer.

Styles to look for: IPA · NEIPA · Pale Ale · Lager · Oatmeal Stout · Saison

Dogma Brewery Belgrade taproom industrial interior railway bar craft beer Serbia
166+ Beers Brewed

Dogma Brewery

Radnička 3 (Stara šećerana), Belgrade

The fastest-growing craft brewery in the Western Balkans — founded in 2016 and already past 166 different beer recipes. The Dogma Tap Room in the old Stara šećerana complex is an extraordinary space: 270 square metres, a six-metre bar built from recycled railway rails, exposed brick walls covered in Belgrade street art, and windows looking directly into the production tanks so you can watch the brewing process while drinking the results. Between 12 and 15 different draft beers at any time, plus canned options; the Dogma Kitchen serves food daily. A genuine brewpub experience in a city that has embraced craft beer with characteristic Serbian intensity. Free parking and pet-friendly.

⏱ Mon–Thu 18:00–00:00, Fri–Sun 12:00–00:00 · 📍 Radnička 3, Belgrade · 12–15 beers on draft

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Salto Craft Brewery Belgrade IPA pale ale beer poured taproom Serbia
Photo by Brett Jordan on Pexels
Belgrade Since 2016

Salto Craft Brewery

Patrijarha Dimitrija 24, Belgrade

Started as a personal home-brewing project, Salto went commercial in 2016 and opened its Belgrade production facility in 2018 — since when it has built a loyal following around five core beers and a rotating seasonal programme. Their Belgrade IPA (6.5% ABV, Amarillo, Cascade and Centennial hops, caramel-biscuit body) is consistently rated among the best IPAs in the country; the Pale Ale is unfiltered, unpasteurised and full of tropical hop character. Salto's philosophy is precision and balance rather than novelty — every beer is made to drink with focus, not to surprise for a moment and disappear. An online shop is available for purchases; contact directly about taproom visits.

⏱ Contact for taproom hours · 📍 Patrijarha Dimitrija 24, Belgrade · 📞 +381 60 399 8871

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Coffee — From Džezva to Single Origin

Serbia runs on coffee. The traditional domaća kafa — brewed Turkish-style in a small copper pot called a džezva — is a social ritual as much as a drink. But Belgrade's specialty coffee scene has grown fast since 2012, and today the city has some of the most serious roasteries in the Western Balkans.

Belgrade

Whether you want a thick, unfiltered cup of domaća kafa drunk slowly in a kafana courtyard, or a single-origin pour-over from a micro-roastery sourcing directly from Ethiopian farms — Belgrade has both, often within the same neighbourhood. Coffee here is never to go, always to linger over.

What to order: Domaća kafa · Espresso · Flat white · Filter / pour-over · Cold brew

Traditional Turkish coffee džezva copper pot cup Serbian domaća kafa Belgrade
Photo by Nur on Pexels
Specialty Roaster

Java Coffee

Andre Nikolića 7, Belgrade

A Belgrade specialty coffee community built around a single idea: bring the full range of fine coffee — from single-origin Ethiopia to washed Guatemala — to people who want to understand what is in their cup. Java Coffee roasts its own beans, features a rotating “coffee of the month” with full origin and processing notes, and runs a café at Andre Nikolića 7 that is open long hours seven days a week. The space is unhurried, the baristas are knowledgeable, and the wholesale side means the beans are fresher than in most city centre cafés. Order a filter to compare with a domaća kafa from the café next door — the contrast tells you everything about Belgrade's coffee evolution.

⏱ Mon–Fri 7:00–23:00, Sat–Sun 8:00–23:00 · 📞 011/40-30-575 · 📍 Andre Nikolića 7, Belgrade

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Specialty coffee roastery single origin pour over beans D59B Belgrade Serbia
Since 2012

D59B Specialty Coffee Roasters

Kralja Petra 70, Belgrade

Belgrade's first specialty micro-roastery, founded in 2012 with a single idea: bring single-origin, 100% arabica coffee to a city that had mostly known instant and commercial blends. D59B sources from Colombia, Ethiopia, Brazil, Honduras and Papua New Guinea, choosing each green bean for flavour complexity, harvest year, and full supply-chain transparency. The shop at Kralja Petra 70 in the historic city centre is a small, serious space — beans on the shelf, a roaster at the back, and baristas who can walk you through the origin of every cup. An online shop ships across Serbia.

⏱ Check website for current hours · 📍 Kralja Petra 70, Belgrade · Online shop available

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💡 Good to Know

  • 🍷 Rakija is always served at room temperature, never chilled — the warmth releases the aromatics. The classic accompaniment is a small piece of something local: cheese, cured meat, a spoonful of home-made jam
  • 🍺 Serbian kafanas (kafane) are not restaurants — they are the social institution of Serbian life. You come for the atmosphere, the tamburica music, and the company; the food and drink are the excuse to stay four hours
  • 🍷 A glass of wine before a meal is called an aperitiv; in Serbia, this role is almost always played by white Tamjanika or dry Prokupac rosé — both served cold in warm weather, slightly less so in winter
  • 🍇 The best Serbian vintages for red wine are generally August-heavy years with cool nights — 2018, 2019, and 2022 are widely considered exceptional across Fruška Gora, Šumadija and Župa
  • ☕ Serbian coffee (domaća kafa) is prepared Turkish-style — finely ground, brewed directly in the cup with boiling water, never filtered. The grounds settle; drink the top half and stop before you reach the sediment. It is never ordered to go
  • 🍻 Skadarlja in Belgrade (the street of Tri Šešira) is at its best on warm evenings between 9pm and midnight — when the musicians start and the terrace fills with a mix of locals, visitors, and people who have been coming here since the 1970s
  • 🍷 When buying wine directly from a Serbian winery, ask about the ‘arhivska vina’ — archive wines from older vintages kept in the cellar. Many estates hold back bottles for 5–10 years and sell them at cellar-door prices that are far below what they would fetch at auction

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