City Break Georgia

A narrow street in Abanotubani. Sulfur rises from a grate in the pavement, warm and sharp. Above you, a wooden balcony carved with vines hangs over the lane. The building looks like it's held together by habit alone. It's five hundred years old and still occupied.

Tbilisi is a city that time layered rather than planned. Persian bathhouses beneath Orthodox churches beneath Soviet apartment blocks beneath glass-and-steel newcomers. All of it functional, all of it simultaneously collapsing and thriving. The old town is genuinely old — and the new town is genuinely new. The contrast keeps the whole city interesting.

Georgia's second city, Kutaisi, offers a different pace — medieval monasteries, a more provincial rhythm, and access to the extraordinary western landscapes. Both reward the traveler who slows down enough to eat, drink, and talk.

Tbilisi old town — centuries in one walk

The old town (Dzveli Tbilisi) runs along the east bank of the Kura River. Start at the Peace Bridge — the glass pedestrian crossing designed by Michele De Lucchi — and walk south through Rike Park to Abanotubani (the sulfur bath district). The domed bathhouses date to the 17th and 18th centuries, their natural hot spring water bubbling at 37°C. A private room runs 15–50 GEL depending on time slot. Worth every lari.

Narikala Fortress crowns the clifftop above the baths. Take the cable car from Rike Park (2.50 GEL, Metromoney card) for views over the old town, then walk the walls and descend through the botanical garden to Shardeni Street — Tbilisi's most atmospheric lane for wine bars and restaurants.

Metekhi Church sits on a cliff above the Kura River opposite the old town. 13th century, simple and severe, with views down to the river and across to Narikala. The equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali stands before it. Free entry. Combine with a walk across the nearby Metekhi Bridge.

The Dry Bridge Market (near the bridge of the same name) hosts one of the most interesting flea markets in the former Soviet Union — Soviet memorabilia, icons, daggers, jewelry, vinyl records, oil paintings. Open daily from dawn. Best Saturday and Sunday mornings.

Rustaveli Avenue — Tbilisi's modern spine

Rustaveli Avenue runs from Freedom Square north through the city's cultural heart. Along it: the Georgian National Museum, the Rustaveli Theatre (beautiful neo-Moorish facade, 1887), the Parliament Building, and dozens of cafes and bookshops.

The Georgian National Museum on Rustaveli holds the Treasury — a collection of ancient gold artifacts, enamel icons, and archaeological finds from across Georgia's 8,000-year history. The Dmanisi collection documents Europe's earliest known hominids, found in southern Georgia. Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10am–6pm. Entry around 15 GEL.

Vera neighborhood, just west of Rustaveli, is Tbilisi's most authentically charming district — leafy streets, art nouveau apartment buildings, independent cafes, quiet courtyards. The kind of neighborhood you settle into for an afternoon with no particular plan.

Fabrika (the former Soviet sewing factory on Merab Kostava Street) has been converted into a creative complex — hostels, bars, coffee shops, design studios, and a large outdoor courtyard. Excellent for people-watching from 10am to midnight. The hostel attached is one of Tbilisi's best-reviewed.

Kutaisi and western Georgia

Kutaisi, three hours west of Tbilisi, is Georgia's second city and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Gelati Monastery (UNESCO) on a forested ridge above the city was built in 1106 by King David the Builder and contains stunning mosaics of Queen Tamar. Bagrati Cathedral (also UNESCO) was partially destroyed by the Ottomans in 1691 and extensively restored — controversial among purists but impressive regardless.

From Kutaisi, day trips reach Prometheus Cave (11 illuminated chambers, underground river, boat ride available), Okatse Canyon (700m gorge, suspended walkway), and Martvili Canyon (turquoise pools, boat rides). All three in one day is ambitious but doable on a tour from Kutaisi.

Kutaisi's budget airport (KUT) handles budget airline routes from many European cities — flights often €40–80 cheaper than Tbilisi. If your Georgian itinerary includes western Georgia and you're budget-conscious, fly into Kutaisi and take the marshrutka east to Tbilisi at the end of your trip.

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