St. Peter's Basilica sits at the heart of Vatican City. Free entry. Long security lines. Worth every minute.
The dome rises 136 meters. Michelangelo designed it. You can climb 551 steps to the top. An elevator covers the first 231 steps. The final 320 are steep, narrow, claustrophobic. The views from the summit span all of Rome.
Inside the basilica, Michelangelo's Pietà sits behind bulletproof glass. He carved it at age 24. The detail is impossible. Mary's face shows grief without melodrama. Christ's body appears soft despite being marble.
The main altar sits directly above St. Peter's tomb. The Necropolis beneath the basilica holds ancient Roman tombs and early Christian graves. Tours require advance booking weeks ahead. They sell out.
Entry to St. Peter's Basilica is free. The dome costs €10 (stairs) or €12 (elevator plus stairs). The Necropolis tour costs €20. Book at basilicasanpietro.va.
The Vatican Museums hold 54 galleries. Miles of corridors. Masterpieces at every turn. You cannot see everything in one visit. Choose your priorities.
The Sistine Chapel is the finale. The ceiling shows Creation. God reaching toward Adam. Michelangelo painted it lying on scaffolding for four years. The Last Judgment covers the altar wall—391 figures, many controversial.
The Raphael Rooms precede the Chapel. Four chambers Pope Julius II commissioned in 1508. The School of Athens in the Room of the Signatura shows Plato and Aristotle debating. Raphael painted himself into the crowd.
The Gallery of Maps stretches 120 meters. Topographical maps of Italian regions painted in 1580. The ceiling frescoes depict each region's history. Often overlooked. Stunningly detailed.
Standard tickets cost €20. Reduced tickets (students) €10. Last Sunday of each month is free—expect massive crowds. Book ahead at museivaticani.va. Early morning tours beat the crowds. Worth the extra cost.
Vatican Gardens cover 23 hectares. More than half of Vatican City. Most visitors never see them. They require separate tickets and guided tours.
Open-air bus tours last 40 minutes. Multilingual audioguides included. You pass Renaissance fountains, medieval fortifications, radio station tower. The gardens date to the 13th century. Popes cultivated medicinal herbs here.
The gardens close Sunday and during papal events. Tours run Monday-Saturday. Groups limited to 12 people. Book at least a week ahead—they sell out.
Garden tours cost €28 including museums entry. Separate garden-only tickets available. Details at Vatican Museums garden tours.
Wednesday mornings bring papal audiences in St. Peter's Square. Free tickets required. Request them weeks ahead through vatican.va. The Pope blesses the crowd, speaks in multiple languages, meets selected groups. Arrive 8 AM for good spots. Security is extensive.
Tourist restaurants surround St. Peter's Square. Overpriced. Mediocre. Walk 10 minutes north into Prati neighborhood. Real Roman restaurants. Lower prices. Better food.
Sciascia Caffè 1919 serves Rome's best coffee. Family-run since 1919. Secret blend. Via Fabio Massimo 80. Open 7 AM-9 PM. The chocolate coffee (cioccolato spread added before espresso) is legendary.
Il Segreto on Via Candia offers fine dining near the Vatican. Chef Daniel Gualtieri creates modern Italian cuisine. Tonnarelli with shrimp tartare. Wood-grilled meats. Extensive wine list. Reservations recommended.
Neve di Latte makes Lonely Planet's best gelato in Rome. Organic seasonal fruits. Bronte pistachios from Sicily. Via Federico Cesi 1. The pistachio is exceptional. Open daily.
Prati lacks tourist menus. Prices reflect local standards. Expect €12-€18 for pasta, €20-€30 for secondi at mid-range places. Il Segreto runs €40-€60 per person with wine.